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| Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance | 
 enlarge | Author: Eric J. Horst
Publisher: Falcon
Category: Book
List Price: $16.95
Buy New: $2.97
You Save: $13.98 (82%)
New (14) Used (11) from $2.97
Avg. Customer Rating:  12 reviews
Sales Rank: 84894
Media: Paperback
Edition: 1st
Number Of Items: 1
Pages: 224
Shipping Weight (lbs): 1
Dimensions (in): 9.2 x 7.5 x 0.6
ISBN: 0762723130
Dewey Decimal Number: 796.5223
EAN: 9780762723133
ASIN: 0762723130
Publication Date: December 1, 2002
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Condition: Brand New may have remainder mark or slight shelfware
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| Customer Reviews:
 Good book (but heed the warnings) December 30, 2003
17 out of 19 found this review helpful
First off you must know that this is a book for a hardcore athletic climber. If you are a novice or a weekend climber you may want to start with something lighter.
This book treats climbing from a super-athletic perspective - covering exercise, nutrition and climbing techniques. Some of the info was way too heavy on the anatomy and physiology.
Still, this book focuses on improving your physical and (often not mentioned in any other book) mental technique. It breaks down skills into physical strength, mental and technique areas. Even though much of the training was over my head, this helped me focus on mental hindrances that were inhibiting my performance and had tests which illuminated my weaknesses and then helped me to focus on strength building exercises to work on those weaknesses (like forearm burn and elbow pain after climbing hard).
 the complete package July 10, 2003
14 out of 16 found this review helpful
I just read Training For Climbing, and it's really nice to have a complete guide in one well-organized package. I had previously gathered training information from numerous sources and it was kind of hit or miss. Now there's a single manual that covers pretty much every aspect of rock climbing performance and training. I would compare this book to Joe Friel's classic "Training for Ironman" and "Cyclists Training Bible" as the most concise guide to training for a specific discipline. I give it 5-Stars.
 Limited perspective June 13, 2003
20 out of 37 found this review helpful
A very misleading title -- certainly not "definitive" and it's not for all climbers. It's an okay book if you're only interested in sport climbing and bouldering. Not very useful for alpinists, ice climbers, ski mountaineers, peak baggers or just being in shape for occasional weekend rockclimbs. Be very careful with some of his advice if you're over 30 since it's mostly written for younger climbers who recover quickly. Now that "Self-Coached Climber" is out, this book is even less valuable.
By Far, The Best Book on Climbing Performance March 27, 2003
16 out of 18 found this review helpful
Everyone I know who has read this book agrees it is the absolute best book on training for climbing. It's well written, comprehensive, and beautifully designed and printed. The information is science based (complete with dozens of research footnotes) and accurate, not anecdotal or shallow like some of the other training books out there. It seems well crafted for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers to utilize. It's a bit long (almost textbook like), but everything presented is relevant and useful; definitely a great buy ... Whether you are looking for guidance on improving your strength, power, technique, or mental skills, Training For Climbing rocks!
Not bad. Not bad at all... February 19, 2003
54 out of 57 found this review helpful
Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard did would-be authors of climbing training manuals a real disservice when they published Performance Rock Climbing back in the early nineties. It was beautifully written, comprehensive, and extremely well researched. Few subsequent books on the subject have added anything to the knowledge base and some actually managed to subtract from it. Having said that, many found PRC a tough read in that it was consumed with `why' and not so interested in `how.' Training for Climbing, on the other hand, is a much needed blueprint for `how' and is the first book that I'd rank in the same league with PRC. Horst breaks his book into the triad of skills necessary for climbing: Mental, Technical, and Physical. The first two are, for the most part, a repetition of methodologies laid out in PRC, but with cute monikers like `Metal Wings.' The physical section is were Horst's book comes into its own. While it breaks little new ground, the focus on very specific training protocols will be highly useful to those who got bogged down in PRC. Horst tells you exactly what to do, when to do it, and how long to keep it up. He also includes chapters on nutrition and injury prevention that many will find useful and interesting. Having said that I have a few serious reservations about the book (and a number of nitpicky ones that I won't bore you with.) First, Horst's 3/2/1 week training cycle, while catchy sounding, is probably too short and will be sub-optimal for many people. For more on this, see PRC or if you want to go nuts check out Tudor Bompa's Periodization of Strength. Second, Horst may have been a bit hasty in completely discarding muscular endurance training. I can't help thinking that his opinion on this subject is the result of an overly narrow interpretation the facts. Again, see PRC for more on this. Lastly, there is no discussion of the strengthening of connective tissue-which may be why Horst is pretty much covered in tape in every photo. Overall, though, a strong effort and a book that if read carefully, will help just about anyone improve their climbing.
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