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| The Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement Training Performance | 
 enlarge | Authors: Dan M. Hague, Douglas Hunter
Publisher: Stackpole Books
Category: Book
List Price: $34.95
Buy New: $21.61
You Save: $13.34 (38%)
New (30) Used (7) from $21.61
Avg. Customer Rating:  19 reviews
Sales Rank: 26934
Media: Paperback
Edition: Pap/DVD
Number Of Items: 1
Pages: 228
Shipping Weight (lbs): 1.5
Dimensions (in): 9.1 x 7.3 x 0.6
ISBN: 0811733394
Dewey Decimal Number: 796.5223
EAN: 9780811733397
ASIN: 0811733394
Publication Date: February 27, 2006
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Condition: Ships immediately! Perfect and New! Pap/DVD. 2006 Paperback.
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| Customer Reviews:
 Totally fills the void. March 3, 2007
3 out of 3 found this review helpful
This book does what others only hint at - give you comprehensive tools to get past peaks, develop and strengthen weaknesses, and actually create a plan on how to get there.
No other book (and I've gotten them all) does this. I don't agree with the writer that this book should have included how to deal with injuries - that is more than covered in other books and I didn't miss it in this one.
The training plans and exercises in this book (and I only climb 2 x week, not 4 - due to my advanced age) brought my bouldering grade up one level (solid on-sight) and leading two grade: In less than six weeks!!
Don't skip the technique sections - they are vital even for advanced climbers.
Best climbing book February 21, 2007
1 out of 1 found this review helpful
Great book, we bought it and like all training activities from this book, now we have a great training plan, thanks!
Not a Substitute for experience BUT... February 16, 2007
13 out of 15 found this review helpful
Training to climb is very sport specific. That is..... there is ample evidence that cross training to climb is not useful. For example being able to do 100 pull ups is probably not going to enhance your climbing ability much. Perhaps the only exception to this rule once you reach a certain level of climbing, is "reading" to climb. I must stress that without a certain baseline climbing experience reading about HOW to climb is not going to help you . However, as you excel you will find yourself plateauing. This is when mentoring will be of greatest benefit. Most cannot afford to be mentored by an experienced climber so you do the next best thing....mentor by proxy...you read a book.
In this regard, this book is one of the best "mentors" around. It takes you from your current plateaued level of climbing into an exponential phase of improvement. The book explains climbing by looking at movement which is composed of space, time, force and balance, efficiency of movement and psychology of movement. After explaining these topics the author gives specific exercises to improve these aspects of climbing.
The author then integrates these concepts into a coherent training schedule by first identifying your current level of performance in actual climbing. He then spells out what you should be doing at that level of climbing to progress to the next level. I particularly appreciated this part of the book.
For example let's say your current level of climbing is 5.10. He gives you a detailed training schedule of how to improve your level of climbing to 5.11. He holds your hand telling you how to warm and for how long, what bouldering problems to do, what climbs to do and how to do them, how to train both aerobically and anaerobically. Detailed training is provided to the 5.13 level.
If you are beginner I would not recommend buying any books yet. Rather go out a climb. For an introduction on "how to climb" please see my listmania: " so you want to rock climb".
what the movements do January 29, 2007
1 out of 1 found this review helpful
The best book i have red until now explaining movements and what they do. How they help the climber & how he can train in order to become better. A must for every climber especially a beginner.
Best Book Ever September 12, 2006
2 out of 5 found this review helpful
This book is the most insightful book into becoming a great climber. The writers of this book are experienced climbers and have been in the climbing community for a long time(lots of connections, try Boone Speed and Tommy Caldwell) This book is a must read, and the DVD is a must see, especially about redpointing. BUY THIS BOOK!
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